A true homecoming: Michelin-starred Chef Sameer Taneja dives deep into his love for Indian food

As he strolls through the winding lanes of Varanasi Michelinstarred Chef Sameer Taneja of Benares Mayfair London lights up talking about a humble discoverymdasha tall glass of lassi from a tiny spot called Rajaram LassildquoIrsquove never tasted anything like itrdquo he says eyes gleaming ldquoIt was made from the creamiest yoghurt with just some sugar syrup But the magic was in the way he churned it And of course there is something about the milk in Banaras Itrsquos like the city breathes dairy and sweets Coming here always feels like truly coming homerdquoIn that moment the Michelin star fades and what remains is the joy of a chef whorsquos just had his heart stolen by a glass of lassiDoda burfi treacleLast weekend Taneja collaborated with Indian Accent for a soldout popup in Delhi and Mumbai bringing together two globally celebrated restaurants for a rare culinary showcase We saw a finely tuned menu of inventive dishes like sour apple pani puri samosa ragda tartlet goatrsquos milk paneer tikka and daulat ki chaat with rose petal chikki ldquoIndian Accent isnrsquot just a restaurantmdashitrsquos an institution The kind you donrsquot need a reason to admire only the privilege to be part of I feel lucky to have been part of it through this popup with Chef Shantanu Mehrotra Irsquom proud of what we created togethermdashit exceeded even my own expectations Cooking in India has been a dream It took 24 years to come full circle and I couldnrsquot have asked for a better homecoming than with the legendary Indian AccentrdquoPeople often ask Taneja the true meaning of fine dining Is it the plating The setting ldquoFor me itrsquos simple take exceptional ingredients cook them with care serve them with energy and intent in a thoughtful spacemdashthatrsquos fine dining Both Benares and Indian Accent share that ethos Itrsquos about how diners are welcomed how each dish is crafted and how the experience is deliveredrdquo says the Frenchtrained cook who had initially found it very challenging to learn and execute his motherrsquos cuisine ldquoBut what a joy itrsquos beenrdquo he says adding ldquoI consider myself fortunate to have started cooking the food of my roots Irsquom still learningmdashunderstanding the nuances of spices and how they workmdashbut I cook from my experiences and my travels Over the years Irsquove worked with chefs like Pierre Koffmann Michel Roux Pascal Daniel Peterson and Vivek Singh Jitin Joshi Through those experiences I also learned how to balance spice with finesse My style remains rooted in classic technique but the heart and soul of my food is 100 per cent Indianmdashdeeply connected to my heritage I call what I do lsquodeeprooted Indian foodrsquo It might look different on the plate but your palate will knowmdashitrsquos intense honest and unmistakably Indian Irsquom proud of thatrdquoRajasthani GatteTaneja comes to India two to three times a year for work and to see his mother After Varanasi his next stop is Lucknow then Amritsar before heading back to London ldquoIn Mumbai I ate so much I genuinely lost count of how many dishes I tried or how much food made its way to my plate but what I do remember is that every single dish was better than the last Each meal every bite was memorable in its own way Irsquod be biased if I said I had one clear favouritemdashit all blended into this beautiful new memory Irsquom carrying with me like a souvenirWe explored quite a few places in the neighbourhoodThose that left an impression were Paparsquos and Bandra Born in Bandra Soam and Swati Snacks have always been close to my heartrdquoSameer TanejaHeading home Taneja packs back ldquomemories of coursemdashso many of them Memories of eating my way through India But also two very important suitcasesmdashone just for food I pack them with fresh vegetables the kind you just canrsquot find in the same way back in London As soon as we land we chop and freeze everythingmdashtrying to stretch that taste of home for at least ten days My bags are bursting with seasonal Indian produce including greens and gourds that carry so much nostalgia For a week or two after Irsquom back our family dinners feel like celebrations Itrsquos not that we donrsquot get these vegetables in Londonmdashwe domdashbut not with that same fragrance flavour or freshness It carries the soul of the soilI handle them with so much care like edible treasure And yes I carry a ton of dry goods toomdashspices snacks namkeenhellip whatever I can get my hands on I donrsquot know what yoursquod call it but to me itrsquos just a suitcase full of loverdquoatOptionskeyd0ddb8ef8f1a62a8cdd22fac27fc5ea7formatiframeheight90width728params