A few weeks ago in Konark, we sat down to a bowl of machha besara and rice at a seaside eatery. The fish curry, swimming in a sharp mustard gravy and soured with ambula (sun-dried mango), was unforgettable. We sent our compliments to the kitchen. Moments later, chef Niranjan Gocchayat emerged carrying a plate of grilled fish caught that very morning from the river.

What was the secret?

“Just three things,” he said. “A fresh catch, a wood fire, and a besara that’s sharp and rustic.” We were convinced. Back in Bhubaneswar, our search for more machha besara led us to Dalma, a restaurant that has done much to preserve and popularise Odia cuisine. On a weekday afternoon, the dining room was packed with office-goers and families alike. The limited menu spanned temple-inspired dishes, coastal specialities, and home-style favourites. Besides the fish and prawns, our server insisted we order a bowl of pakhala as well. Later, we wandered the lanes of Unit 1 market, looking for phutana (odia tempering of five seeds including mustard, cumin, fenugreek, and nigella) and besara, which we were told was made at home and never sold in the market.