Explore the culinary flavours of 'God's own country' at this resto-bar in Lower Parel

Courtesy our college bestie we know just one phrase in Malayalam lsquoEnikku vishakkunnursquo This translates to lsquoI am hungryrsquo in English Thankfully at the newly launched Kerala Quarters a kitchen and urban quarter bar there is no chance of going hungry or thirstyDished out by Flavour Pot Foods that runs Taftoon Cirqa and Oye Kake this latest offering reimagines a typical Keralite toddy shop in buzzing Lower Parel The space opens into an al fresco seating that leads into an indoor restobar done up in mustard yellow walls wicker decor and a statement bar Coasters sport popular lingo in Malayalam such as Adipoli which means something fantastic and Chetta which means older brotherChef Sudheesan PG from Kannur makes a tawa fry PicsAshish RajeAping a typical quarter system bar we liked inclusions like achappam savoury rice and coconut milk crackers Rs 149 murukku rice fritters pappadam tapioca and banana chips and boiled kadala or black chickpeas When founder and food nerd Pankaj Gupta was introduced to Shobha Pillai Coutinho a food historian and Kerala culture enthusiast he roped her into the core team mdash to perfect cultural references pronunciations slang along with her food expertise The menu is divided into three parts mdash arambham beginning madhyabhagam middle and avasadam endVazhapoo parippu cutletsldquoAt Kerala Quarters I am the factcheckerrdquo she laughs Pillai spent her childhood holidays in her maternal grandmotherrsquos home in Mavelikara Alleppey district ldquoI was intrigued by the Kerala kitchens its chimneys and cooking matta rice on the adapei woodfirerdquo recalls Pillai who wrote AaharamndashSadhya A Perfect Culinary Legacy from Godrsquos Own Country in the lockdown This recipe book is an introduction to Keralite sadhya an elaborate buffet eaten on special occasions and community celebrations ldquoStarting with salt pickle avial sambar and two types of payasams there are 26 to 28 items in totalrdquo says PillaiShobha Pillai and Pankaj GuptaKannurbased brand chef Sudheesan PG mans the kitchen and exacts the rustic food approach of the Malabaris northern Surianis central and southern part as well as the Iyersrsquo traditions in the kitchen ldquoKerala cuisine sees five distinct cooking styles mdash pollichattu roasted or grilled ularthiyathu slowroast or stirfried varuthathu deep fry aaviyil vevichadhu steam cooking Matta rice in aduppu and varutharacha roasted and ground or roasted coconut gravy like the shappile pork curry Rs 689 porkrsquos shoulder and belly cooked in onion and tomatoes and seasoned with unpounded spicesrdquo Sudheeshan explainsMalabar monk mule and Attirachi ularthiyathu Ernakulamstyle dry roasted muttonldquoThe north Malabari region sees a tamed spice level like the fish moilee or the kudampuli In the centre the food gets spicier with generous use of black and green pepper and red kandari chilliesrdquo Gupta adds The team has covered regions from Thiruvananthapuram along the southern coast Thrissur in central Kerala to Kottayam in the east and Alleppey in the south west ldquoIn southern Kerala communities such as the Syrian Christians are known for their rich coconutbased stews while the central region of Palakkad mdash geographically in northeastern Kerala mdash is influenced by Tamil Brahmin cuisine which predominantly features vegetarian dishes Meanwhile the Alleppey and Kottayam regions stand out for their abundant seafood offerings including prawns and meats like porkrdquo explains PillaiChemmeen koonthal tawa roast and KQ creme caramelOur culinary trip begins with a humble parippu moringa soup Rs 459 Drumsticks are simmered in a light lentil stock warmly opening the taste buds Vazhapoo parippu cutlets are crunchy discs made from banana flower and masoor gram patties Rs 389 with a pasty red chilli chutney that starts the ignition for the meal to comeAttirachi ularthiyathu Rs 689 an Ernakulamstyle dry roasted mutton cooked in onions coconut and a robust tempering of curry leaves The meat is tender the spices bold The chemmeen koonthal tawa roast Rs 699 is a toddy shop specialty of prawns and squid rings roasted with a touch of coconut oil It is an oily balance of spice and tang We wipe this clean with ney pathiri Rs 249 a deep fried puri made of rice powder and seasoned with cumin seeds To pace the spice we bite into the ney pathiri Throughout the meal we sip on two drinks Nannari soda sarbath Rs 349 is a refreshing basil seed and lemon juice drink spiked with sarsaparilla syrupFrom the cocktails we sip Malabar monk mule Rs 749 Old Monk meets orange zing of Aperol and is finished with lime and kudampuli tamarind The vanilla sweetness of the rum meets the bitterness of Aperol and pushes the possibilities of the dark rum The most beautifully executed dish is koon kizhi Rs 459 Traditionally steaming in banana leaves is usually done for fish Here is a vegetarian execution with mushroom and shallots A delicate symphony unfolds with the sweetness of the banana leaves that mingles with the gentle spice of coconut gravy We pair it with idiyappams and egg appams and indulge in the pacha manga curry Rs 589 that lends a tangy playfulness with red riceKQ creme caramel Rs 449 is a sweet bite of caramel custard with black Kerala jaggery sauce A filter coffee on the side is a perfect ending Starting next month the restobar will also host Sunday Sadya brunches Kerala QuartersAt Mathuradas Mill Compound Plot 126 Senapati Bapat Pawar Marg opposite Zeba Lower Parel Time 1130 am to 330 pm 6 pm to 1230 am all weekCall 9930335941